A record of City Branch outings by Hugh Deam City of London 15th October 2011 St Mary-le-Bow Cheapside EC2V 6AU 12 41-3-21 in C St Katherine Cree Leadenhall Street EC3A 3DH 6 9-3-18 in G The Crosse Keys Gracechurch Street EC3V 0DR St Botolph without Aldgate EC3N 1AB 8 25-0-7 in Db St Botolph Bishopsgate EC2M 3TL 8 17-1-6 in D Christ Church Spitalfields E1 6QE 8 17-1-10 in E St Matthew Bethnal Green E2 6DT 8 13-3-23 in E ![]() Itinerant ringers begin to assemble before St Mary Simon Edwards remains oblivious Margaret Marsh writes The call of London and the chance to ring in churches steeped in hundreds of years of history. How lucky we are! What a successful outing on a perfect day of pure autumn sunshine and a crisp blue cloudless sky. Twenty nine of us hit London for a day of adventure. Thanks to Leon Thompson, an ex-Oxford ringer and now a London resident, the day had been organized perfectly. Those who caught the train from Oxford were also treated to the arrival of the former GWR Castle-class steam locomotive number 5043, the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe.
First we dropped into St Mary–le–Bow on Cheapside. Founded in or around 1080 as the London headquarters of the Archbishops of Canterbury, the medieval church of St Mary-le-Bow survived three devastating collapses before being completely destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. Rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren, it was destroyed once more in 1941, but was again rebuilt with all new bells, cast in 1956, and re-consecrated in 1964. We recalled the story of Bow Bells - that to call yourself a Cockney you have to be born within the radius of their sound. These big bells boom out for about three miles over London. But for our visit the bells were shuttered in for “sound control”, thus affecting the demographics of Cockneys. The bells at St Mary–le–Bow have a reputation for being difficult to handle. For inexperienced ringers the bells are tricky because of the way they are arranged. Ringers need to get used to the long draft of 35 feet (10.5 metres) as well as to their weight. The tenor, no 12 bell, weighs 41 cwt (2 ton) and has a diameter of 61.25 inches. This is the heaviest of our itinerary and the third heaviest full-circle ringable bell in the Metropolis behind the cathedrals of St Paul (61 cwt) and Southwark (48 cwt). The oldest peal board on display was dated 1730 - “a complete peal of Plain Bob Triples in 3 hours and 40 minutes”. We climbed the narrow circular stair to the beautiful ringing chamber with light entering through large openings from two sides. Jonathan said to the band “These bells are very big and very heavy. Give them respect and they will turn out all right”. The ambitious experienced ringers were eager to grab the big bells. We were bemused watching these strong ringers ring up the tenor, trying to stand it and later to ringing it down. Quite an extrovert performance was given by Leon. Rounds several times for less experienced members and the beautiful deep sounds rang out. Then rounds and call changes and various methods were rung. The big achievement in this tower was the ringing of Stedman Cinques by the more experienced ringers with the great Tenor behind. As it is difficult to get a booking at this church, this was a satisfying visit. This is what the ringers had to say: Sarah Taylor, who lives in London, said “you rang well for a visiting team with less experienced ringers; these bells can be tricky”; Andrew Freer, who began ringing as an adolescent, said the achievement in this tower was the ringing by the more experienced ringers of Stedman Cinques with the great Tenor behind.
Again walking the London streets we next came to St Katherine Cree in Leadenhall St, which is the only church in London with a ground floor ringing chamber. Today the church is a Guild Church but has no parish; it has chosen to dedicate its ministry to the world of finance, commerce and industry, which it seems in today’s world need a lot of ministering! The parish existed as early as 1108, when it was served by the Augustinian Holy Trinity Priory, Aldgate. It was founded by Maud, Queen at the time of King Henry I. In 1280, St Katharine Cree was founded as a separate church for the use of the parishioners. The present church dates from 1631, but the tower dating to 1504 was retained from the previous building. The church escaped the Great Fire of London in 1666 and suffered only minor damage in the London Blitz of the Second World War. However, structural problems required extensive restoration in 1962. St Katharine Cree is one of the most significant churches of the Jacobean period, and the only one to have survived in London. Its architect is unknown. The nave has tall Corinthian columns. The chancel has a fine rose window, modelled, it is said, on the much larger rose window of Old St Paul's Cathedral (lost in the Great Fire). Depicting a Catherine wheel, the stained glass is original dating from 1630, and the font likewise dates from around 1640. The church's six bells were rung in the summer of 2007 for the first time since 1880 (and in November 2007 an appeal was launched to raise £60,000 to restore the bells to full ringing order). These bells were hung as an anti-clockwise ring before the recent restoration in 2009 and are now a clockwise ring. In comparison to our visit to St Mary-le-Bow, the tenor at St Katherine Cree, cast in 1846, is a lightweight at 9cwt and has a diameter of 39 inches but the rope draft is similarly 30 feet (9 m). The other five bells were cast in 1754 thus are the oldest on the itinerary. Ringers found the newly restored bells good to ring. Good reporting on my part got these responses. “Really nice bells” said Andy and “I like them” said Sarah. Roy told me “they were very good to ring”.
A supremely excellent pint of St Austell's Black Prince was drunk by many at The Crosse Keys and then we were on our way again after lunch. We continued down Leadenhall Street to find more towers to ring the changes on this beautiful autumn day. Our next two churches had in common their patron saint, St Botolph, and their degree of difficulty. St Botolph was a 7th century Saxon noble and one of the most revered East Anglian saints. He died 680AD. His remains were taken from place to place in the Bishopgate area and thus he is known as the patron saint of wayfarers and travelers.
St Botolph without Aldgate. Written records show a church on the site in 1115 in the priory founded by Matilta of England, but its foundations possibly predate 1066. The church was rebuilt in the 16th century and again in 1741-4. It was severely bombed in the WW2 Blitz, restored, then damaged again by fire in 1965. The church was 'rehallowed’ by the bishop of London in 1966 when the Queen, the Queen Mother and the Lord Mayor attended. In the late Victorian period the church was referred to as 'The Church of Prostitutes' and it is not far from the sites of the 'canonical five' murders committed in the autumn of 1888 by 'Jack the Ripper'. The church has a monumental interior and a beautiful octagonal bell ringing chamber with the lower level of the wall painted a lovely quiet orange. An interesting peal board in this church reads Stedman Triples May 1995, 'the composition containing 705 calls and the first to be composed using ordinary bobs only is rung for the first time in 2 hours and 58 minutes'. All the peal boards were for Triples, indicating that a ‘difficult’ tenor was covering behind. The eight bells range in weight from 6cwt to 25 cwt. The tenor has a diameter of 54 inches and was cast in 1764. These bells are tuned to old concert pitch. Ringers found the bells difficult and Jonathan was pushed to say to the band “It seems these bells are not that easy. Could we concentrate and try to get it right? They are hard work” and then “That’s not too bad”. As is common with taller bell towers, quite a lot of movement could be felt while ringing.
St Botolph, Bishopsgate. Christian worship has probably been offered on this site since Roman times. The original Saxon church, the foundations of which were discovered when the present church was erected, is first mentioned as ‘Sancti Botolfi Extra Bishopesgate’ in 1212. Although the church survived the Great Fire of 1666, St Botolph’s had by the early eighteenth century fallen into disrepair and the decision was made to build anew. The old church was demolished in 1725, and the present church, the fourth on this site, was completed in 1729. It is aisled and galleried in the classic style, and is unique among the City churches in having its tower at the east end, with the chancel underneath. The font, pulpit and organ all date from the eighteenth century. We learned also that John Keats was baptized here in 1795. We also learned that the church was damaged by a Provisional IRA bomb in 1993. This damage may be responsible for the strong movement in the tower; we could see the gap between the tower and the church widening and narrowing as the front six bells were rung. The eight were cast in 1782 and range in weight from 5 to 17cwt. Steve said “You have to keep them under tight control and keep weight on them. They do sound rather nice from outside”. ![]() Christ Church Spitalfields Next we moved onto the refurbished bells at Christ Church, Spitalfields. We walked a long way to this church and the character of the terrain changed from the sophisticated City financial areas to more suburban marketplace areas. Christ Church was built under the Act of Parliament of 1711. This Act required the building of fifty new churches (only 12 were built) to serve the new populations on the fringes of London. This was the first of the series of six that Nicholas Hawksmoor designed. However it was damaged by fire in 1836 and the original peal of 12 bells were destroyed. Another peal of 8 was cast. Then in 1970, a peal was bought from the demolished St Stephens Church, Clapham Park using funds from the sale of the 1836 derelict peal. In 1971 they were refurbished with a new frame. This present peal ranges in weight from 5 to 17cwt. They are now very beautiful as the ringers unanimous positive comments were "wow", "beautiful to ring", "a deep rich tenor", "a great sound", "absolutely lovely", "splendid" and "not at all difficult".
Finally, at the end of the day, we took a very interesting long walk to St Matthew, Bethnal Green. We passed through the mainly ethnic Bangladeshi street markets of Whitechapel and Brick Lane. As early as 1690 a church was planned for Bethnal Green with Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil of Sir Christopher Wren, designing a large basilica type church. This did not go ahead due to opposition to its cost. A smaller and more reasonably priced church was designed by George Dance and finally completed in 1745. Fire destroyed the interior, including the original ring of 8 in 1859, but the bells were re-cast by George Mears of Whitechapel in 1861. Then, in 1940, bombing destroyed and damaged most of the church leaving a roofless shell, though the tower and its bells remained intact. The interior of church was rebuilt and it was re-consecrated in 1961. It is a large and open modern space, to me the least agreeable of churches we have visited, though others were in great favour of its style. In contrast to the openness of the church, the tower was small and cramped. The access stair was tucked away through a very low opening and was steep, narrow and difficult to climb indicating these and the tower were original. Here took place the funerals of both of the Kray twins, who were local parishioners and notorious for organized crime. This district has many social problems but is becoming a thriving, busy and exciting area of ethnic markets, food stalls, bright coloured fabrics and saris as well as a burgeoning trendy tourist spot. By now the ringers were tired but a successful performance of Eight Spliced Surprise Major was rung. This is standard for accomplished ringers but they all seemed very pleased. In this tower hangs a peal board, dated Monday 27th April 1868, commemorating the longest peal ever rung until then. The details on this board were used by Dorothy L Sayers in her story The Nine Tailors, where Lord Peter Wimsey and the band at Fenchurch St Paul ring 15,840 changes of Kent Treble Bob Major on a snowy New Year's Eve. Thus they equalled this particular performance by the Ancient Society of College Youths. The Dorothy L Sayers Society recently made a donation towards the restoration fund for the bells and ringing chamber here. The tower itself was also refurbished at the same time.
By now it was the end of the day but the ringers still had comments to make; "I’m hungry", "I have to hurry off", "how about a beer". We broke into groups. Some went for a curry, others to a Bethnal Green pub for a beer, others to engagements elsewhere in London. Thanks to all who organized such an impressive itinerary. Leon was so pleased with the outing that he said he would like to organize another one next year. He did all of the work in arranging the itinerary and also he produced a document with maps and directions which ensured that all went smoothly and that none of the band got lost. Thanks also to Andy Dunn for his work in organizing most of the ringers and for Leon Thompson, Katie Lane and Roy Jones who got in other ringers from London and beyond. It worked out well in that we had exactly the right number of ringers, with the right mix of abilities, and so no embarrassment was caused. It was a most enjoyable outing, especially because of St Mary-le-Bow, which attracted the better ringers to come along. We were sorry not to have Hugh Deam with us due to his work commitments. Overall we walked three miles or more, climbed many stairs and rang successfully in six of London’s historical churches. It was a beautiful day of new ringing locations and of camaraderie in one of the greatest cities in the world. Margaret Marsh ![]() Tadmarton North Oxfordshire 21st August 2011 Tadmarton St Nicholas 6 11-0-15 in G# Tadmarton The Lampet Arms Hanwell St Peter 6 7-0-8 in A
Hugh Deam, Anthony Hughes, Susan King, ![]() St Nicholas Tadmarton ![]() The Lampet Arms ![]() St Peter Hanwell ![]() The Hanwell clock ![]() The visiting ringers Mapledurham picnic 16th July 2011 Mapledurham St Margaret 6 7-3-3 in Ab
Charles Smith, Alison Merryweather-Clarke, ![]() St Margaret Mapledurham ![]() The church clock showing the time at precisely 4pm ![]() Silton Dorset and Wiltshire 18th June 2011 Silton St Nicholas 6 9-0-10 in F# Fifehead Magdalen St Mary M 3 8½cwt in A# Ludwell The Grove Arms Gillingham St Mary V 8 24-1-12 in Db Donhead St Mary St Mary V 6 9-1-10 in G East Knoyle St Mary V 6 12-0-8 in F
Christian Burrell, Roy Jones, Peter Lloyd, ![]() St Nicholas Silton ![]() St Mary V Gillingham ![]() St Mary Donhead ![]() St Mary V East Knoyle Freeland near Witney 16th April 2011 ![]() In the church yard Anthony Williamson, Paul Lucas, Andrew Dunn, Charles Smith, Judith Kirby, Hugh Deam, Alison Merryweather-Clarke, Roy Jones, Heather Banyard, Melanie McGregor, John Hearn, Bernard Masterman, Steve Everett. ![]() SMV Freeland Buckinghamshire & Northamptonshire 19th March 2011 ![]() Whaddon St Mary Shenley St Mary 6, 17-1-11 in Eb Whaddon St Mary 6, 14-2-21 in G Calverton The Shoulder of Mutton Calverton All Saints 6, 10-1-24 in G# Cosgrove St Peter & St Paul 6, 11cwt in G Heather Banyard, Ron Burgess, Paul Kimber, Clare Malone-Lee, Bob Benstead, Hugh Deam, Susan King, Margaret Marsh, Ann Boulting, Andrew Dunn, Peter Lloyd, Bernard Masterman, Jane Burgess, Roy Jones, Paul Lucas, Donna Murphy, John Pusey. ![]() Great Brickhill St Mary ![]() Shenley St Mary ![]() Whaddon St Mary ![]() Calverton All Saints ![]() Cosgrove St Peter & St Paul Bedfordshire Saturday 26th February 2011 ![]() Felmersham Harrold St Peter & All Saints 6, 13-0-6 in F# Odell The Bell Carlton St Mary 6, 9-2-7 in Ab Christian Burrell, Simon Edwards, Judith Kirby, Hugh Deam, Steve Everett, Paul Lucas, Andrew Dunn, Roy Jones, Bernard Masterman, John Pusey. Cambridge Major, P/B Major, Stedman Triples, Grandsire Triples, London, Norwich, Oxford T/B, Double Oxford, Single Oxford, Little Bob, St Clements. ![]() St Mary Felmersham ![]() St Peter Harrold ![]() The Bell Odell ![]() St Mary Carlton | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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